Colombia: What to eat

It is not a secret that I'm always home sick. I've lived in the United States for 12 years and I still miss Colombia. I love both Countries, but I need to go home often. In the past years, I've trying to go less to Colombia and use my vacation days to travel to new places. However, I miss Colombian food, A LOT. I can get a few items in Tampa and there are several Colombian restaurants, but it is not the same.

Colombian food varies from region to region. In the Atlantic Coast, the typical dish is a fried red snapper with coconut rice and plantains. In Bogota is a soup called ajiaco. I always hated ajiaco, but everyone loves it. From Cali, my hometown, is a soup called Sancocho. In Medellin is a dish called bandeja paisa which is probably the largest meal that you will ever have.

Some of the food that you have to try if you ever go to Colombia include: 

Arepas: Corn flour based cakes. This is a breakfast staple in Colombia. It doesn't have a lot of flavor so don't eat it plain, add butter, salt, and cheese on top. 

Empanadas: Fried corn pastry filled with meat, potato, and vegetables. I like to add lime juice and some spicy sauce. Empanadas are popular all over South America. Each country has their own version. 

Tropical Fruit Juices: There are so many tropical fruits in Colombia that going to the market is always fun because of the variety. My favorite is Lulo a fruit that I can never find it in the United States. Lulo juice is amazing!!! If you go to Cali you need to try a lulada! I like luladas so much that I offered them in the cocktail hour of our wedding (with vodka). In Ecuador, the same fruit is called Naranjilla. Other fruits like maracuya (passion fruit), mandarina (tangerine), mora (blackberry), and mango are always good for juices. They can be made with water or milk. You always have to say "mora en leche" or "mora en agua" to get it the way that you want it. We also have the basic strawberry and orange but PLEASE try something different. 

Coffee: Make sure that you drink lots of coffee while you are in Colombia. We don't drink espresso. Have a tinto (black coffee) or a cafe con leche (coffee with milk). Good brands to bring back home are: Oma, Juan Valdez, Cafe Quindio. Look for the export quality coffees in the supermarket. The same brands sell cheaper ones that are for everyday coffee. They are all good, but if you are carrying it in your luggage get the BEST of the best. You can also buy coffee at the duty free.

Mango Biche:  This is my weakness. A mango biche is a mango that is not ripe yet. It is a little sour and if you add salt and lemon it makes it even better. There is a variety that is called manga which is not always available but I always ask. It is great to have it with aguardiente shots to take away the alcohol taste. Just like peanuts with a drink. I even had mango biche at our wedding. Mango biche is typical in Cali more than in other cities in Colombia.

Plantains: I'm a sweet plantain girl, but the green plantains are also delicious. This is very typical in Cali and the region close to Cali. We call them tostadas. You can eat them alone or put food on top or just some guacamole or sauce. They are thin, fried, crispy, and salty.

One big tostada and one happy husband

There are also several restaurants that you simply can't miss if you go to Colombia. Since I'm homesick I tend to go to the same places over and over. Nothing wrong with trying new places, but I never stay long enough to satisfy my cravings and also see all of the new/hip places. 

Crepes & Waffles: This is a chain restaurant that has great crepes (sweet and salty), waffles (I've never tried them), soups, salads, and huge ice creams for a great price. The fruit juices are very good here. I always order a chicken (pollo), mushroom (champinones), and cheese (queso) crepe and save room for a huge dessert. This has been my favorite restaurant since it openened many years ago. I was lucky to also visit this place in Quito last year. http://crepesywaffles.com/websiteftp/col/espa/

Juan Valdez: Best coffee shops in the world. They are in many Cities in Colombia and around the world. This is the Colombian version of starbucks! http://www.juanvaldez.com/

Juan Valdez, Parque del Cafe, Armenia

Juan Valdez fan! :)

Hamburguesas El Corral: These are the best hamburguers. I never eat a hamburguer except if it is from El Corral. There are everywhere in Colombia and at most malls food courts. http://www.elcorral.com/

Karens Pizza: This was my favorite pizza place growing up and it still is. The crust is thin, the mozzarella cheese is delicious. I always get the ham and cheese pizza very simple but I love it. The samba and petete combinations are also delicious! This is a chain from Cali, but they have 1 restaurant open in Bogota close to Parque de la 93. They deliver if you are staying close from there. 

http://www.karenspizza.net/

Everybody loves Karen's pizza

Ventolini: The best ice cream with brownie that I've ever had is here. This ice cream shop is originally from Cali, but many Cities in Colombia have a Ventolini.

El Arca: Calle 118 #5-03. This is what we call a fusion food restaurant. All dishes are made with a plantain base. I love all of the sweet plantain combinations. Located in Usaquen and if you go on the weekend there is always a long line. Order aborrajados as appetizers, they are made with sweet plantain and cheese. This restaurant is originally from Cali but they have one in Bogota in Usaquen. 

Since most people that go to Colombia, go to Bogota I included in this post some of the places that you can't miss if you ever visit this wonderful City. 

Andres Carne de Res This famous restaurant is located outside of Bogota in the town of Chia. It is a restaurant and also a night club. The decor is extravagant and fun. This place is very popular and it is  ALWAYS packed. Make a reservation or you could wait hours for a table at lunch or never get one a night since most people stay to dance. The transportation to/from Andres can be a challenge for those without a car. Getting there in a taxi is possible but getting out of there will definitely be a challenge. I would recommend that tourist stay in the City and visit Andres D.C. (details below). Phone number: 863-7880 http://www.andrescarnederes.com/

Andres Carne de Res, Chia

Andres D.C.  Calle 82 # 11 - 57 This one is from the same owner as the original Andres. Andres D.C. is located right next to la T and it is part of El retiro shopping mall. It has 5 floors divided into names: hell, purgatory, and heaven. When making a reservation ask for a table in heaven (rooftop) or hell (basement). The menu is huge and everything I've ordered is good. There are a lot of typical colombian dishes in the menu and they are know for their steaks. It is pricey, but it is worth visiting. Foreigner visitors get a special welcome. Make sure that you mention this to your server. A reservation is needed to eat or party here. Try to get there around 7:00 PM to have dinner, and keep the table for partying. The custom when partying is to have a table and order a bottle instead of buying drinks at the bar. Buy a bottle of aguardiente (local alcohol) and dance the night away. Order a Mandarino = vodka with frappe tangerine juice! BEST COCKTAIL EVER.  Reservations number: 863-7880.

Honores de la Casa - for foreigners

Aguardiente Shots!!!

Andres DC 

Outside Andres DC

Bogota Beer Company (BBC): I'm not a beer drinker, but I like to seat in the outdoor tables of the Usaquen, Parque de la 93, and Zona T locations. http://www.bogotabeercompany.com/

After writing this post, I am really homesick and craving every single thing from this list. There are MANY other delicious (and not so delicious) things to try in Colombia. If you ever watched the "No Reservations" episode in Colombia you know what I'm talking about. Anthony is too brave and I can't recommend everything that he had in Colombia. Most foreigners love Colombian food. It is not spicy and we love our carbs! Expect to see at least 2 or 3 in everything that you order.

Bogota, Part 3, Things to do

These suggestions are based on what I like most about the City. I'm Colombian but, have never lived in Bogota. The City is big and I am sure there are many other things to see and do.

When people ask me what I like to do when I go to Colombia, I always say I can't stop going because of the food, shopping, and dancing. Most of my family lives in the US, so my trips are basically just to visit my friends. I've met a lot of people that think Colombia is in the middle of a jungle, and that there is nothing interesting to see, do, or buy. When I moved to the US, I used to get very upset when people would make jokes about Pablo Escobar. Finally they ask me about Shakira when I say I'm from Colombia.

My favorites things to bring back are inexpensive handicrafts and earrings, leather products, 18 K gold jewlery, emeralds, inexpensive silver jewelry, and Coffee. Shopping for clothes is also great since sereval European brands have their factories in Medellin. I specially love naf-naf, americanino, chevignon, diesel. My boyfriend is now a number 1 fan of the Colombian brand Arturo Calle. This is a huge men's clothing store with very good quality items at low prices.  I also love buying underwear and bathing suits. The quality is very good and the designs are very unique. I mostly buy from Touche, but there are other brands that are very well known like Onda de Mar and Agua Bendita. The prices are a little high, but I've had some of these bathing suits for over 10 years and they still look good. The sizes are not big, and the have very little coverage just like brazilian bikinis. 

La Zona T, Calle 82 Cra 11. This is my favorite area of Bogota. It is call "La T" because of 2 pedestrian streets that intersect and form a T. This area is surrounded by 3 upscale malls: Andino, Atlantis Plaza and El Retiro. The Hard Rock Cafe is located in Atlantis. My favorite jewlery store, Pequenas Indulgencias, is located in El Retiro. Andino is also a great mall where you can find all of the brands that I recommend.

La T

Usaquén: Carrera 7, Calle 119. This area is located in the north end of the City. It used to be a town outside of Bogota, but the City grew so much that it took over and it was added to the City. Usaquen still has the original town's church and plaza. This area looks beautiful especially during christmas. The main square is surrounded by many nice restaurants and bars. I particularly love Cafe Amarti and Bogota Beer Company. One of my favorite restaurants from Cali "El Arca" has a location a few blocks from the plaza. On Sundays, the Usaquén flea market is the best place to shop for handicrafts.

Uzaquen's Square

Usaquen

Usaquen

Hacienda Santa Bárbara: Carrera 7 No. 116 - 05. This was an old hacienda and it became a mall. This is only a few blocks from Usaquen.

Unicentro: Carrera 15 between Calles 120 and 127. Another shopping mall worth visiting if you are close, but most stores are already in the "T".

Parque de la 93: Calle 93 between Carrera 11 and 13. A trendy section of Bogotá with clubs and restaurants.

Monserrate: Going to the Cerros (mountains) to see the church and also to have a panoramic view of the City. You can take the Funicular (train) or a Teleferico (cable railway). At the top of the hill there is a chuch, a restaurant, and a small craft's market. I have only been to Monserrate once and I was dizzy in the teleferico, but the train looked 10 times worse!! http://www.cerromonserrate.com/

Entrance to the Teleferico station

Photo Credit: Andi Perullo

Photo Credit: Andi Perullo

Photo Credit: Andi Perullo

Photo Credit: Andi Perullo

Photo Credit: Andi Perullo

Photo Credit: Andi Perullo

Monserrate from the Botero Museum

I found this useful link from tripadvisor for other ideas on what to do in the City. http://www.tripadvisor.com/Attractions-g294074-Activities-Bogota.html

Bogota: Part 2 - Where to Stay

I will only recommend staying in the North side of town for any foreigner tourist. There are other places to stay, but if you want to be safe it might be worth paying a little more. This is probably not a useful travel review for backpackers. Trust me, leave the backpacking adventure for Europe instead of South America. I have said this many times but I will say it again: don't take the cabs on the street, always call for a service. If you don't have a phone, ask the front desk at the hotel or a cashier/waitress at a restaurant/store to call one for you. A common crime is "el paseo millonario" where a fake taxi picks you up, then the cab driver picks up someone else who is armed to take you to different ATMs in the City. I have several friends that have been victims. This is not just a bad press story. Also, be extra careful with your purse, wallet, camera. Avoid walking alone or at night. We have a saying that I use all the time "No de papaya" (don't give papaya) which means don't make it easy for someone else to fool you. In this case to rob you. I have read many times that Washington DC has a higher crime rate than Bogota. Use your common sense: don't show cash in public, carry your money in different pockets, be careful with ATMS, don't take candies from strangers, if you get sprayed or pinched run for help it is probably scopolamine (burundanga), and always call a cab. I might sound scary, but this is the only way to develop a common sense that you don't have when you grow up in a safe place. I have never had a bad experience, but I tend to be extra careful and maybe a little too careful.

Hotel Morrison

Located in my favorite area of town. This hotel is close to 3 shopping malls and the "T" which is a district full of restaurants and bars. You can see the location of the hotel here. I found a rate for August of USD 215.00. This rate varies depending on the type of room and if you do a 21 day advance purchase. The hotel is located next to a park. I might be paranoid, but please do not walk by the park after dark. All the parks that I remember when I lived in Colombia were scary after dark. Just imagine homeless, drugs, and no security. The rule to be safe when you travel is not to let people take advantage of you. Basically don't put yourself at risk.

http://www.morrisonhotel.com/

Hotel Casa Medina

This is the hotel that most diplomats prefer to use. It is close to the embassies and it is also close to the "G zone" where you can find lots of upscale restaurants. The price is around $350 per night depending on the day. Weekends are usually lower since most guest are visiting Bogota for business. My friend Andi stayed here once, and I remember that the bedrooms were simple yet comfortable. They have drivers available (at an additional cost) to take you to the airport or around town.

http://www.hotelcharlestoncasamedina.com/

Hotel Boheme Royal

This hotel is very well located and the rate is a little lower than the others (Around $160 per night).

http://www.hotelesroyal.com/

Hotel La Fontana

This is a traditional hotel in Bogota. It is located north of the City. Probably as far north as you will go. It is close to Unicentro mall. The rate is around $170 per night. 

http://www.hotelesestelar.com/es/linea-prime/hotel-estelar-la-fontana

Other recommended hotels:

Hotel Casa Dann Carlton 

Average price found using www.hotels.com = $125

http://www.hotelesdann.com/hoteles.php

Hotel Santa Barbara Real

Average price found using www.hotels.com = $89 including breakfast. 

Windsor House

http://www.hotelesestelar.com/es/linea-superior/hotel-estelar-windsor-house

Casa de la Opera

Located in the downtown district. Looks like a beautiful hotel. A friend recommended this place and she called it "magical". The downtown area is very nice, but I would prefer to stay somewhere else since most of the bars and restaurants are located in the north side of the City.

**If you find a good deal and you want to send me the address and the hotel name, I will be happy to help.

Destination: Bogota (Part 1)

I will be writing a few posts about Colombia since one of my good friends will be traveling for my wedding, and she will be also going to Cartagena and Bogota. I sent her the post about things to do in Cali. I promised to give her some travel advise about Bogota and Cartagena. I have been to both places several times, and I love to be a tour guide. 

Many of my friends from Cali moved to Bogota after college, and when I go it is mostly to spend time with them. I have done the tourist side of the City as well. Santa Fe de Bogota is the Capital of Colombia, and the largest City in the Country. I love Bogota because it has culture and it is also fun. The weather is always mild and nice. If the sun is out you don't need a jacket, but at night you will always get a little cold. Like any large City, you must be very careful not to be a victim of pickpockets. If you want to learn more about Bogota please read this from wikipedia. 

I wanted to do one blog post, but I have many pictures to fit into just one single blog post. This post is about the historical and cultural things to do in downtown Bogota. I will also write about places to eat, stay, and dance later.

When you go to "El Centro" you can visit the Botero Museum, walk around the candelaria neighborhood, the cathedral, the Plaza Bolivar, the government buildings, and several colonial churches.

A few blocks from the Botero Museum is the gold museum. The gold museum has the largest pre-hispanic gold collection in the world. It was renovated recently, and it is an impressive building with 4 floors full of collections. I normally ask a taxi to take me to the Botero Museum and from the I walk towards the Cathedral, the Presidential Palace, Plaza Bolivar, and then I walk 4 blocks towards the gold Museum. The best way to know which direction you are walking in Bogota is to look at the mountains or los cerros. They are always on the east side. This is not the best area to stay, but it would make a nice day visit. It is better to stay in the north side of the City about 20 minutes from the downtown.

My favorite places in the downtown in Bogota are:

1. BOTERO MUSEUM

The Colombian artist Fernando Botero donated a set of his sculptures, paintings, and drawings for this museum. The museum also has pieces from other artists. The building is beautiful. I always take many pictures of the Colonial house as well as my favorite Botero works.

Entrance Fee: FREE

Hours: Monday to Saturday from 9:00 am - 6:30 PM, Sundays and Holidays from 10:00 a.m. 5:00 PM Closed on Tuesday.

Address: Calle 11 No. 4-41

http://www.banrepcultural.org/museos-y-colecciones/museo-botero.

The website can also be seen in english.

Museo Botero entrance

Monserrate can be seen on a clear day

One of my favorite pieces in the museum

Outside the Museum to the East - look at the mountains

If you walk a block east from the Botero Museum there is a Juan Valdez coffee shop

Looking west from the Museum. Walk this way 3 blocks towards the Cathedral and Plaza Bolivar

Colombian Flag

Another free Museum along the way to the Plaza Bolivar. This is the Coin Museum 

Mango Biche - one of my favorites things to eat in Colombia. Ask for salt and lemon.

2. Plaza de Bolivar (BOLIVAR SQUARE)

The Plaza de Bolivar is the center of the historical area in Bogota. There is a statue of Simon Bolivar in the square. Simon Bolivar liberated Colombia, Venezuela, Panama, Peru, Ecuador, and Bolivia from the Spanish monarchy. The Cathedral which is called Catedral Primada is on the east side of the plaza. The palace of justice, Palacio de Justicia, is also in the Plaza Bolivar. This is the Colombian supreme Court. The National Capitol, the Colombian Congress building, is on the opposite side of the square. Behind it you can see the Presidential Palace, Palacio de Narino, the home of the Colombian President. The major's house is also across the plaza. The square is located on Calle 11 between Carrera 7 and 8.

Cathedral side from Calle 11 

Catedral Primada

Congress

Simon Bolivar

Iglesia Nuestra Senora del Carmen

Palacio de Narino

Take a walk around the Presidential Palace and you will see the San Agustin Church, the Santa Clara Church, and the major's house.

Iglesia San Agustin

National Guards

Museo Iglesia Santa Clara

3. Museo del Oro: Banco de la Republica (GOLD MUSEUM)

The museum is located 4 to 5 blocks from the Cathedral. Walk on Carrera 6 towards Calle 15 (NE direction. The museum is located in the Plaza Santander. See this google map. If you don't have much time at least visit the Ofrenda room. This is my favorite part of the museum.

FEE: $3,000 pesos (less than $2 dollars). Free on Sunday

Address: Carrera 6 No. 15 - 88 Parque Santander

Hours: Tuesday to Saturday from 9:00 am - 6:00 PM, Sundays and Holidays from 10:00 a.m. 4:00 PM . Closed Mondays.

http://www.banrepcultural.org/museo-del-oro.

The website can also be seen in english.

Poporo

Museo de Oro Bogota

Photo credit: http://www.banrepcultural.org/museo-del-oro
This is the front of the building and the Plaza Santander

Here is a link from google maps that you can zoom in to see the area:

http://maps.google.com/maps?client=safari&oe=UTF-8&ie=UTF8&q=plaza+bolivar+bogota&fb=1&gl=us&hq=plaza+bolivar&hnear=Bogot%C3%A1,+Colombia&ll=4.597942,-74.073536&spn=0.011101,0.019226&z=16