Salento Part 2 & Valle del Cocora, Colombia

Last year, during thanksgiving week, we went to Colombia. It was Emma's first trip to my home country and my first one in over 3 years. We went to the coffee region for 2 days and I fell in love with my country even more. One of the most popular places in the region is a little town called Salento. You can read about our trip and where we stayed here. The town is beautiful and it is close to a place called Valle del Cocora (Cocora Valley). I always wanted to go and see the wax (cold weather) palms. We went to the town mirador (lookout) the first day and to the Cocora Valley the second day. 

Emma was very good during the whole trip. She didn't want to walk more than 5 minutes and she wanted to be carried ONLY by her mom. I did what every mom would do: take her on my back with the ergo baby. At the time Emma was 31 pounds!!!! The 2,400 meter altitude is OK; except when you are going uphill with a toddler on your back. After a long recovery from a broken leg just a year ago, I felt really proud of myself.  

These are some of my favorite pictures from the mirador in Salento:

We hired a tour guide and he took us to the most wonderful walk. You can rent horses or just walk. We decided to walk to the river and back. We were supposed to go to the palm forest, but I was exhausted from carrying Emma after a long walk and that mean really going up the mountain. We will return when she can walk alone!! These are some of my favorite pictures from the Cocora Valley:

If you ever have a chance to visit the Colombian mountains don't miss these places. The pictures don't really show how beautiful everything is. I can't wait to return to this beautiful place! 

Colombia Trip 2014- Part 1

I'm going to try to catch up with our trips from last year. I have a lot of pictures and stories to share. I've been busy at work and the little time that I have left is to spend it with Emma and André. In 2013, exactly on November 20th, I broke my leg. I had to cancel our family trip to my hometown just one week before traveling. I got a refund in the form of travel vouchers valid for one year. We couldn't decide where to go during the year. At first, I was in crutches and recovering. After I got better André got surgery and had 6 weeks of recovery time. Time just flew last year: we just went back to our original travel plans. We would go to Cali, Colombia for 9 days. 

On thanksgiving day, we started our trip to Colombia. This was going to be Emma's first time there and my first time in over 3 years. I was excited and nervous. It didn't help that right after our vacation I was going to travel for work to the North East.  I literally had to catch a flight from Miami to Pennsylvania.  I had to take a suitcase full of work and winter clothes to Colombia and back to the U.S. 

The first issue we encountered on our way there was that I left Emma's diaper bag in the car. My sister took us to the airport with plenty of time. We got the bags out, the stroller, the kid and went to our gate. When we were putting everything through security, I realized what I had done. I forgot the diaper bag in the back seat. Emma's diaper bag was loaded with diapers, food, antibacterial wipes, regular wipes, 1 set of extra clothes, sweater, bottles, milk, sippy cup, toys and everything I wanted to have during the flight. We called my sister and she drove back to the airport. André went (ran) outside to pick it up. He made it in time to come back inside the gate before it was time to board. I really thought that I was going to have a panic attack. In the mean time I went to look for diapers inside the terminal. I found some but they only sell one size (4) and Emma is a size bigger (5). It was not a huge difference but soon after using the smaller size, her pants got wet. I was lucky to have the diaper bag with us again and our additional set of pants saved the day. I'm so relieved that we had time to spare that day. I don't think that we could have survived without her diaper bag. 

The second mistake I did that morning was that I forgot my iPad loaded with apps and movies for Emma at home. I wanted to charge it until the last second and as a result I completely forgot about it. Emma was addicted to YouTube and watching the wheels on the bus was her favorite past time. We were OK during the first flight which was only 30 minutes and at the airports because I had internet. However during the long flight, there was no wi-if available. We made it with books, coloring books and a few apps that I had in my phone. It was hard but we survived the 3 hour flight without an iPad. 

We finally took a break during our layover and had lunch and a Juan Valdez coffee. If I fly in or out of MIA's D concourse I have to have one. I had to buy souvenir pants for Emma because she got her second pair of pants wet and I had no dry clothes with us. It was a Minnie Mouse PJ with shorts instead of pants. Apparently when you can only find shorts in Miami. At least they we're dry. 

I tried to feed Emma some real food during the long travel day. I got her lunch and dinner at La Carreta, a Cuban restaurant located in MIA. Emma didn't want any of it and she just ate fruits and snacks. When we got to Cali our cousin had dinner ready for us. I had never seen Emma eat her dinner so well like she did that day. She was so happy there. She was excited to see motorcycles. I didn't even know that she knew how to say "moto". The first thing that I ate when we arrived at home was a granadilla. This fruit is sweet and is one of my favorites. A trip to Colombia is not complete without my daily granadilla. We went to bed after midnight exhausted and ready to relax for a few days. 

Salento, Colombia

For several years, I wanted to visit Salento. Not Salento, Italy; Salento, Quindio, Colombia. This is a small town in the middle of the Colombian coffee region located 3 hours away from Cali. It was isolated for a long time and as a result, the traditional architecture was preserved. We finally planned a short trip last December while we were in Cali. It took us almost 4 years to get there. Emma was amazing. She didn't cry or complained except almost at the end. We had to improvise her lunch making a quick stop on the road. Luckily, highways are very interesting in Colombia. You drive through the towns and there many things to look around. She got car sick and as a result we had to continue our trip with the windows down. That was all part of the "adventure". 

I fell in love with Salento and with the beautiful mountains around it. After living in Florida for 15 years, I get very excited to see mountains and green landscapes. We had the typical food lunch: trout and a huge green fried plantain. André loves his tostada as you can see below. 

The best part was having a Colombian coffee right in the middle of the mountains where it's produced. The coffee shop was antique and everyone makes you feel welcome. If you want to go, it's on the left side of the church if you are looking  at it from the town's main square or plaza. The barista has been the same for over 20 years and he has pictures to prove. 

Our hotel was only 2 blocks away from the Main Street (5th) and I would recommended it for anyone who wants to go. It's called Salento Real. It's a new building, but it was built to reflect the typical architecture. The rooms are small but comfortable, and the service was incredible. 

There are 3 big reasons to visit Salento and stay a few days: the town, the mirador (overlook) and visiting the Cocora Valley. I will share lots of pictures to share what we did in 2 days. It was enough time to see what we wanted to see, but sadly 4 hours each way is a long way to go and we were too exhausted. I would recommend staying for 2 nights instead of only one night. 

Hola from Cali, Colombia

I'm home. I should just say I'm in my home town. I feel sad to say this, but I feel out of place. Maybe the almost 15 years that I've been living in the US have changed me too much. I feel nostalgic when I say that I'm almost a foreigner in my own land. 

The first thing that we did "wrong" was to sit Emma without a car seat. The airport is outside of the City and the driving speed is higher. She was very excited to see motorcycles. They are everywhere. She is also excited to see taxis and buses. As soon as you drive within City limits, the publicity boards distract you from one add to the next. Ever since we got to the airport it has been like an sensory "explosion". This is something that I used to love and miss. Starting with the huge (single) line at immigration, the very little respect for personal space, the chaotic baggage claim and the welcome parties outside of customs. I really mean it when I say parties! I really thought that someone famous was on the plane. Adding to all of that, we now have a little girl to watch in addition to our bags. Our driver was waiting for us but we couldn't find him. It took us less than 5 minutes to find him but it was already a bit too much. I can just imagine what it would be like for someone who doesn't speak Spanish. 

So many things make me home sick for Colombia that it's hard to decide where my heart belongs. I love the way people treat you, my friends that I've known forever, the food, the tropical fruits, the music everywhere, the convenience of having everything you want delivered to your door, the mountains... I could go on and on. 

When I told Andre that I don't think I can live here again, he was relieved. Not long ago, we said that our goal was to move back to South America. We didn't say if it would be to Quito or Cali or Bogota but we were absolutely sure that we had to move back. Now, I'm not so sure we fit in. 

After this trip, I will have to think about how to balance the person I am today with the one that I want to be. Until that happens I have to say that my real home is where my family is. No matter where we live, as long as I am with them I feel complete. 

My Favorite Place on Earth

I might have talked about San Andres Island before, but lately it has been in my mind a lot. Probably because I have been at home for so long. I was obsessed with this island growing up. We used to go on our family vacations once or twice a year. It was my favorite place on earth. I haven't been there in 12 years but I have hundreds of pictures that I scanned from our trips in the 1980's and 1990's. 

San Andres island belongs to Colombia, but is located in the Caribbean close to Nicaragua. There have been endless arguments with Nicaragua about who should have the island. Nicaragua recently "won" some marine space and all Colombians were really upset. The island is also close to Jamaica and that is probably why you will mostly hear reggae music and listen to islanders speak creole instead of Spanish.

I remember seeing many European tourists in San Andres. Not many from the rest of the world. There are direct flights from Panama City or Bogota. The hotels are not really 5 star resorts. The true magic of this place is the ocean which is called the sea of 7 colors. This island is a UNESCO World Biosphere Reserve. Many people travel to San Andres and the nearby islands of Providencia and Santa Catalina to go scuba diving.

Providencia and Santa Catalina are 2 islands close to San Andres that are more rural and absolutely beautiful. You must take a short flight from San Andres to Providencia. Once there you could take a boat tour to see these islands. There is a legend that pirate Henry Morgan hid his treasures in San Andres. There is a rock in Providencia that is said to be Morgan's head. In San Andres you can visit Morgan's cave where his treasure is supposed to be hidden. My favorite stop was always Cayo Cangrejo (Crab Cay). This tiny cay was full of black crabs that you could barely see because of the rocks. You can hike a small hill to see the endless ocean from there.

View from Cayo Cangrejo

The best memories of my childhood are in this island. Someday I will take my daughter to show her my favorite place and to continue to create great memories along with my family.

If you want to see more of San Andres, I found this video that was created as part of a National tourism campaign. 

Guest Post: Day Trip to Salento, Colombia

Desde que nos mudamos a Estados Unidos have 13 años, hemos apreciado mas a nuestro pais. Cada vez que viajamos, tratamos de visitar lugares a los que nunca habiamos ido o que no habiamos visitado en muchisimos años.  Uno de estos lugares fue Salento. Este hermoso pueblo esta hubicado en la region cafetera a menos de 3 horas de Cali y aproximadamente a media hora de Armenia. Lo mas lindo de la zona cafetera es el paisaje, su clima, y los paisas quienes son probablemente las personas mas amables que existen. Una de las cosas que siempre habiamos querido hacer era un tour en Jeep Willys, uno de los emblemas de la region cafetera. Los Jeep Willys fueron importantes en el desarroyo de la industria del cafe Colombiano y todavia es usado para transportar el cafe y la gente de las fincas.

El jeep que contratamos nos recogio en la mañana en una finca de la region donde nos estabamos quedando junto con mi esposo, mi hermano y mi cuñada. Para nosotros fue toda una aventura montarnos en este jeep abierto en carreteras destapadas y sobretodo a nuestra edad. Este dia no solo fuimos a Salento sino tambien a los pueblos de Filandia, Quimbaya, Montenegro y Pueblo Tapao. 

After we moved to the United States 13 years ago, we appreciate our native Country even more. Every time that we go, we try to visit new places or places where we haven't been in a long time. One of those places was Salento. This beautiful town is located in the coffee region less than 3 hours away from Cali and approximately 30 minutes from Armenia. The best about the coffee region is the scenery, the weather, and the paisas - some of the nicest people you will ever meet. We always wanted to take a Jeep Willys tour which is one of the emblems from the region. The Jeep Willy's was an important part in the development of the Colombian coffee boom and it is still used to transport coffee and people from the coffee farms. 

The jeep that we hired picked us up in the morning in a country house where we were staying along with my husband, brother, and sister in law. It was an adventure for us to be riding an open Jeep along the unpaved roads at our age. We visited Salento and also the nearby towns of Filandia, Quimbaya, Montenegro, and Pueblo Tapao. 

Our ride

Si necesitan prueba que el Jeep Willis es importante en la region cafetera miren las siguientes fotos...

If you don't believe that the Jeep Willys is so important in the coffee region, see the pictures below...

Salento es famoso por la comida, la arquitectura y el mirador. Para llegar al mirador hay que subir mas de 250 escaleras. Vale la pena subir porque desde alli se puede apreciar el Valle del Cocora.  En este Valle crece la palma de cera, el arbol nacional de Colombia, la cual es la unica palma que crece en clima frio. Nosotros no subimos porque ya habiamos ido en otro viaje y ademas acababamos de llegar del mirador de Pueblo Tapao. Nuestra visita a Salento la disfrutamos comprando artesanias, tomando fotos, y almorzando la comida tipica que es trucha con patacones.

Salento is famous for its food, the architecture, and the lookout. To get to the lookout you have to go up over 250 stairs. The climb is worth it because from there you can see the Cocora Valley. The wax palm, the national tree, grows in this Valley. This is the only palm that grows in cold weather. We didn't go to the lookout during this trip because we had been there before and also because our tour included a stop at the lookout in Pueblo Tapao. We enjoyed our trip to Salento buying handicrafts, taking pictures, and having a traditional lunch of trout with fried green plantains. 

From the Pueblo Tapao lookout

Valle del Cocora

Las escaleras que se ven al final de la calle (amarillas y azules) son las que llegan al mirador. 

The stairs at the end of the road (yellow and blue steps) lead to the main lookout in Salento.

Colombia es un pais del cual la gente se enamora por su cultura y por su belleza natural. En mi opinion, uno de los atractivos mas grandes de latinoamerica es ver los pueblos que todavia conservan su arquitectura española. Esta fue nuestra tercera visita a Salento pero en el Jeep Willys disfrutamos aun mas. 

Colombia is a Country that people love because of its culture and its natural beauty. In my opinion, one of the highlights of latin america is visiting the towns that still preserve the Colonial architecture. This was our third trip to Salento, but with the Jeep Willys tour we enjoyed it even more.

Yolanda Suarez, my mother, is an Colombian artist. She will be posting and sharing her pictures in this blog while I'm on maternity "leave" and I can think about traveling again.

Guest Post: Overnight Trip to Villa de Leyva, Colombia

Nuestro paseo empezo en Bogota donde una empresa de transporte nos llevaria hasta Villa de Leyva. El tour que contratamos era una van que se paga por puesto. El precio fue aproximadamente $200 dolares por persona e incluia el transporte, guia turistico y una noche de hotel. Nosotros eramos los unicos pasajeros en este viaje con el guia turistico solo para nosotros. El nos instruyo acerca de la historia de cada region por la que pasamos. La primera parada en el camino fue en Sutamarchan a comer arepas y comida tipica Boyacense. Lo mas representativo de este lugar es la longaniza (un clase de chorizo).

Our trip started in Bogota where a tour company would take us to Villa de Leyva. They took us in a van that was paid by seats. Sharing rides is a common practice in Colombia for out of town trips. We paid approximately $200 dollars per person for the round trip, a tour guide, and one night in a hotel. We were the only passengers that day and had the tour guide for ourselves. He gave us history lessons about every region along the way. Our first stop was in the town of Sutamarchan to eat arepas and typical food from the region. This town is known for its longaniza (a saugage).

La segunda parada fue a conocer el Puente de Boyaca, un sitio historico porque aqui fue donde Simon Bolivar gano la batalla definitiva para la Independecia de Colombia el 7 de Agosto de 1819.

Our second stop was at the Boyaca Bridge. This is a historical site because this is where Simon Bolivar won the last battle for the Colombian Independence on August 7th, 1819.

Approximadamente 4 horas despues de salir de Bogota, llegamos a Villa de Leyva. Esta ciudad es Patrimonio Nacional y en mi opinion la mas linda de Colombia. Este pueblo parece seguir en el siglo 19. Las nuevas construcciones estan obligadas a seguir la misma arquitectura. Todas las casas deben ser blancas con puertas y ventanas verdes; las calles de piedra pueden ser transitadas por carros. Pasamos la noche en un hotel tipo hostal cerca de la plaza mayor con habitaciones y baños privados que incluia desayuno tipico.

After approximately 4 hours we reached Villa de Leyva. Villa de Leyva is a national heritage site and in my opinion the most beautiful town in Colombia. This town is still looks like the 19th century. Any new constructions are required to follow the Colonial architecture. The houses are all white with green doors and windows and the cobblestone streets can be used by cars. Our tour included one night in a local hostel with a private room and bathroom near the main square. The hostel also included a typical Colombian breakfast.

Plaza Mayor, Villa de Leyva

Hostel Entrance

Nuestro tour tambien incluia una visita al Convento del Santo Eccehomo. Este convento esta en las afueras de Villa de Leyva.

Our tour also included a visit to the Santo Eccehomo convent located outside Villa de Leyva.

Al dia siguiente, paramos en El Fosil, el museo de los fosiles donde hay un Kronosaurio exhibido. 

The next day we visited El Fosil, a museum where you can see a kronosaurus.

De  regreso a Bogota pasamos por Raquira para comprar artersanias y disfrutar de la comida tipica de la region por ultima vez. Nuestro guia tambien nos llevo a Chiquinquira a conocer a la famosa Virgen de Chiquinquira.

On our way back we stopped by a town called Raquira to buy crafts and eat local food for one last time. Our tour guide also took us to the town of Chiquinquira to see the famous Virgin of Chiquinquira. 

Raquira

Iglesia de Chiquinquira

Virgen de Chiquinquira

Lo mejor de viajar por Colombia es el cambio de paisaje y de climas en el camino. Este pais es rico por muchos motivos y uno de ellos es la cantidad de pueblos conservados en el pasado.

The best thing about traveling in Colombia is the change in scenery and climate along the way. This country is rich for many reasons and one of them is the little towns preserved in the past. 

*This post was written by Yolanda Suarez, my mother. She will be posting some of her travel pictures in this blog. For more information about Villa de Leyva, there is a NYTimes article here. *