Cartagena de Indias, Colombia (Part 1)

Cartagena is one of Colombian's favorite vacation spots. Every day it becomes more popular with foreigners and is finally a Cruise stop again. Cartagena is also very popular for destination weddings. The most beautiful location for wedding pictures is probably in Cartagena. I have a hard time imagining a wedding dress with a 40 C° + humidity weather, but it is so pretty that it is worth it. I did consider Cartagena for our wedding, but it was more expensive and it hard to coordinate.

Cartagena is located in the north coast of Colombia, in the Atlantic Ocean. It has many beach resorts and boutique hotels. Most of the boutique hotels are located in the Old City "La ciudad amurallada". The beach is not that pretty, but a short boat ride will take you to the Rosario Islands where you can see the typical clear caribbean waters. If you only have a few days I recommend to stay in the historic Old City. There are many other places that have better beaches than Cartagena.

I spent many of my summers and Christmas breaks in Cartagena. I have to admit that as a kid I did not like to go here because of the "ugly" beach. I hate to admit it, but it is true. I grew up in a City and my idea of vacation was a resort by a nice white sand beach. I was obsessed about San Andres Island and only wanted to go there. When my parents wanted to go to Cartagena, it meant that I had to go to a dark sand beach and spend many of my vacation days visiting museums and churches. This is what I cared about when you are a kid and a teenager. I now regret it...

After moving to the US, I didn't go to Cartagena for several years. When I returned in 2004, I was surprised to see how the City had improved. Many of the old houses were renovated and converted into chic hotels, the old plazas had a nightlife, and there were many more things to do. I did the City tour again, but this time I enjoyed it. I only have a few pictures that are scanned. I didn't get a digital camera until after 2004. I can't wait to return to Cartagena and take many pictures. My parents were there last year for a few days. I requested some of their pictures to add to this blog. I'll add them as soon as I receive them. I will also make a post about the places to see and some recommended hotels. A friend that will be going to Cali for my wedding will also be traveling to Bogota and Cartagena. I promised to tell her everything that she needs to know, and I thought it could help somebody else along the way.

Every region in Colombia has its own typical dish and music. In the north coast the typical dish is fried fish with coconut rice and fried plantains (tostones). The regional dance is cumbia. I found this video with some dancers. I love that song and the sound of the clarinete. When we are in elementary school we have to make dance presentations at the end of the year. I had to dance cumbia but I had to be a boy. I went to an all girls school and since I didn't move that well I had to be a guy EVERY YEAR. I wish I had pictures of that.

My parents in their Honeymoon, 1964

with my aunt at the same place of the picture above -walls from the San Felipe Fort

Dark sand beach

Taking a carriage ride with my parents

At the beach with my cousin

These are some links from weddings in Cartagena from the photographers that will be shooting our wedding. I am not trying to show the wedding pictures. I just added the links because these pictures were taken in the most beautiful places around the City.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/efeunodos/sets/72157626384756678/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/efeunodos/sets/72157625578035125/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/efeunodos/sets/72157624599184896/

I also found this video where you can see the City

Bogota, Part 3, Things to do

These suggestions are based on what I like most about the City. I'm Colombian but, have never lived in Bogota. The City is big and I am sure there are many other things to see and do.

When people ask me what I like to do when I go to Colombia, I always say I can't stop going because of the food, shopping, and dancing. Most of my family lives in the US, so my trips are basically just to visit my friends. I've met a lot of people that think Colombia is in the middle of a jungle, and that there is nothing interesting to see, do, or buy. When I moved to the US, I used to get very upset when people would make jokes about Pablo Escobar. Finally they ask me about Shakira when I say I'm from Colombia.

My favorites things to bring back are inexpensive handicrafts and earrings, leather products, 18 K gold jewlery, emeralds, inexpensive silver jewelry, and Coffee. Shopping for clothes is also great since sereval European brands have their factories in Medellin. I specially love naf-naf, americanino, chevignon, diesel. My boyfriend is now a number 1 fan of the Colombian brand Arturo Calle. This is a huge men's clothing store with very good quality items at low prices.  I also love buying underwear and bathing suits. The quality is very good and the designs are very unique. I mostly buy from Touche, but there are other brands that are very well known like Onda de Mar and Agua Bendita. The prices are a little high, but I've had some of these bathing suits for over 10 years and they still look good. The sizes are not big, and the have very little coverage just like brazilian bikinis. 

La Zona T, Calle 82 Cra 11. This is my favorite area of Bogota. It is call "La T" because of 2 pedestrian streets that intersect and form a T. This area is surrounded by 3 upscale malls: Andino, Atlantis Plaza and El Retiro. The Hard Rock Cafe is located in Atlantis. My favorite jewlery store, Pequenas Indulgencias, is located in El Retiro. Andino is also a great mall where you can find all of the brands that I recommend.

La T

Usaquén: Carrera 7, Calle 119. This area is located in the north end of the City. It used to be a town outside of Bogota, but the City grew so much that it took over and it was added to the City. Usaquen still has the original town's church and plaza. This area looks beautiful especially during christmas. The main square is surrounded by many nice restaurants and bars. I particularly love Cafe Amarti and Bogota Beer Company. One of my favorite restaurants from Cali "El Arca" has a location a few blocks from the plaza. On Sundays, the Usaquén flea market is the best place to shop for handicrafts.

Uzaquen's Square

Usaquen

Usaquen

Hacienda Santa Bárbara: Carrera 7 No. 116 - 05. This was an old hacienda and it became a mall. This is only a few blocks from Usaquen.

Unicentro: Carrera 15 between Calles 120 and 127. Another shopping mall worth visiting if you are close, but most stores are already in the "T".

Parque de la 93: Calle 93 between Carrera 11 and 13. A trendy section of Bogotá with clubs and restaurants.

Monserrate: Going to the Cerros (mountains) to see the church and also to have a panoramic view of the City. You can take the Funicular (train) or a Teleferico (cable railway). At the top of the hill there is a chuch, a restaurant, and a small craft's market. I have only been to Monserrate once and I was dizzy in the teleferico, but the train looked 10 times worse!! http://www.cerromonserrate.com/

Entrance to the Teleferico station

Photo Credit: Andi Perullo

Photo Credit: Andi Perullo

Photo Credit: Andi Perullo

Photo Credit: Andi Perullo

Photo Credit: Andi Perullo

Photo Credit: Andi Perullo

Monserrate from the Botero Museum

I found this useful link from tripadvisor for other ideas on what to do in the City. http://www.tripadvisor.com/Attractions-g294074-Activities-Bogota.html

Bogota: Part 2 - Where to Stay

I will only recommend staying in the North side of town for any foreigner tourist. There are other places to stay, but if you want to be safe it might be worth paying a little more. This is probably not a useful travel review for backpackers. Trust me, leave the backpacking adventure for Europe instead of South America. I have said this many times but I will say it again: don't take the cabs on the street, always call for a service. If you don't have a phone, ask the front desk at the hotel or a cashier/waitress at a restaurant/store to call one for you. A common crime is "el paseo millonario" where a fake taxi picks you up, then the cab driver picks up someone else who is armed to take you to different ATMs in the City. I have several friends that have been victims. This is not just a bad press story. Also, be extra careful with your purse, wallet, camera. Avoid walking alone or at night. We have a saying that I use all the time "No de papaya" (don't give papaya) which means don't make it easy for someone else to fool you. In this case to rob you. I have read many times that Washington DC has a higher crime rate than Bogota. Use your common sense: don't show cash in public, carry your money in different pockets, be careful with ATMS, don't take candies from strangers, if you get sprayed or pinched run for help it is probably scopolamine (burundanga), and always call a cab. I might sound scary, but this is the only way to develop a common sense that you don't have when you grow up in a safe place. I have never had a bad experience, but I tend to be extra careful and maybe a little too careful.

Hotel Morrison

Located in my favorite area of town. This hotel is close to 3 shopping malls and the "T" which is a district full of restaurants and bars. You can see the location of the hotel here. I found a rate for August of USD 215.00. This rate varies depending on the type of room and if you do a 21 day advance purchase. The hotel is located next to a park. I might be paranoid, but please do not walk by the park after dark. All the parks that I remember when I lived in Colombia were scary after dark. Just imagine homeless, drugs, and no security. The rule to be safe when you travel is not to let people take advantage of you. Basically don't put yourself at risk.

http://www.morrisonhotel.com/

Hotel Casa Medina

This is the hotel that most diplomats prefer to use. It is close to the embassies and it is also close to the "G zone" where you can find lots of upscale restaurants. The price is around $350 per night depending on the day. Weekends are usually lower since most guest are visiting Bogota for business. My friend Andi stayed here once, and I remember that the bedrooms were simple yet comfortable. They have drivers available (at an additional cost) to take you to the airport or around town.

http://www.hotelcharlestoncasamedina.com/

Hotel Boheme Royal

This hotel is very well located and the rate is a little lower than the others (Around $160 per night).

http://www.hotelesroyal.com/

Hotel La Fontana

This is a traditional hotel in Bogota. It is located north of the City. Probably as far north as you will go. It is close to Unicentro mall. The rate is around $170 per night. 

http://www.hotelesestelar.com/es/linea-prime/hotel-estelar-la-fontana

Other recommended hotels:

Hotel Casa Dann Carlton 

Average price found using www.hotels.com = $125

http://www.hotelesdann.com/hoteles.php

Hotel Santa Barbara Real

Average price found using www.hotels.com = $89 including breakfast. 

Windsor House

http://www.hotelesestelar.com/es/linea-superior/hotel-estelar-windsor-house

Casa de la Opera

Located in the downtown district. Looks like a beautiful hotel. A friend recommended this place and she called it "magical". The downtown area is very nice, but I would prefer to stay somewhere else since most of the bars and restaurants are located in the north side of the City.

**If you find a good deal and you want to send me the address and the hotel name, I will be happy to help.

Destination: Bogota (Part 1)

I will be writing a few posts about Colombia since one of my good friends will be traveling for my wedding, and she will be also going to Cartagena and Bogota. I sent her the post about things to do in Cali. I promised to give her some travel advise about Bogota and Cartagena. I have been to both places several times, and I love to be a tour guide. 

Many of my friends from Cali moved to Bogota after college, and when I go it is mostly to spend time with them. I have done the tourist side of the City as well. Santa Fe de Bogota is the Capital of Colombia, and the largest City in the Country. I love Bogota because it has culture and it is also fun. The weather is always mild and nice. If the sun is out you don't need a jacket, but at night you will always get a little cold. Like any large City, you must be very careful not to be a victim of pickpockets. If you want to learn more about Bogota please read this from wikipedia. 

I wanted to do one blog post, but I have many pictures to fit into just one single blog post. This post is about the historical and cultural things to do in downtown Bogota. I will also write about places to eat, stay, and dance later.

When you go to "El Centro" you can visit the Botero Museum, walk around the candelaria neighborhood, the cathedral, the Plaza Bolivar, the government buildings, and several colonial churches.

A few blocks from the Botero Museum is the gold museum. The gold museum has the largest pre-hispanic gold collection in the world. It was renovated recently, and it is an impressive building with 4 floors full of collections. I normally ask a taxi to take me to the Botero Museum and from the I walk towards the Cathedral, the Presidential Palace, Plaza Bolivar, and then I walk 4 blocks towards the gold Museum. The best way to know which direction you are walking in Bogota is to look at the mountains or los cerros. They are always on the east side. This is not the best area to stay, but it would make a nice day visit. It is better to stay in the north side of the City about 20 minutes from the downtown.

My favorite places in the downtown in Bogota are:

1. BOTERO MUSEUM

The Colombian artist Fernando Botero donated a set of his sculptures, paintings, and drawings for this museum. The museum also has pieces from other artists. The building is beautiful. I always take many pictures of the Colonial house as well as my favorite Botero works.

Entrance Fee: FREE

Hours: Monday to Saturday from 9:00 am - 6:30 PM, Sundays and Holidays from 10:00 a.m. 5:00 PM Closed on Tuesday.

Address: Calle 11 No. 4-41

http://www.banrepcultural.org/museos-y-colecciones/museo-botero.

The website can also be seen in english.

Museo Botero entrance

Monserrate can be seen on a clear day

One of my favorite pieces in the museum

Outside the Museum to the East - look at the mountains

If you walk a block east from the Botero Museum there is a Juan Valdez coffee shop

Looking west from the Museum. Walk this way 3 blocks towards the Cathedral and Plaza Bolivar

Colombian Flag

Another free Museum along the way to the Plaza Bolivar. This is the Coin Museum 

Mango Biche - one of my favorites things to eat in Colombia. Ask for salt and lemon.

2. Plaza de Bolivar (BOLIVAR SQUARE)

The Plaza de Bolivar is the center of the historical area in Bogota. There is a statue of Simon Bolivar in the square. Simon Bolivar liberated Colombia, Venezuela, Panama, Peru, Ecuador, and Bolivia from the Spanish monarchy. The Cathedral which is called Catedral Primada is on the east side of the plaza. The palace of justice, Palacio de Justicia, is also in the Plaza Bolivar. This is the Colombian supreme Court. The National Capitol, the Colombian Congress building, is on the opposite side of the square. Behind it you can see the Presidential Palace, Palacio de Narino, the home of the Colombian President. The major's house is also across the plaza. The square is located on Calle 11 between Carrera 7 and 8.

Cathedral side from Calle 11 

Catedral Primada

Congress

Simon Bolivar

Iglesia Nuestra Senora del Carmen

Palacio de Narino

Take a walk around the Presidential Palace and you will see the San Agustin Church, the Santa Clara Church, and the major's house.

Iglesia San Agustin

National Guards

Museo Iglesia Santa Clara

3. Museo del Oro: Banco de la Republica (GOLD MUSEUM)

The museum is located 4 to 5 blocks from the Cathedral. Walk on Carrera 6 towards Calle 15 (NE direction. The museum is located in the Plaza Santander. See this google map. If you don't have much time at least visit the Ofrenda room. This is my favorite part of the museum.

FEE: $3,000 pesos (less than $2 dollars). Free on Sunday

Address: Carrera 6 No. 15 - 88 Parque Santander

Hours: Tuesday to Saturday from 9:00 am - 6:00 PM, Sundays and Holidays from 10:00 a.m. 4:00 PM . Closed Mondays.

http://www.banrepcultural.org/museo-del-oro.

The website can also be seen in english.

Poporo

Museo de Oro Bogota

Photo credit: http://www.banrepcultural.org/museo-del-oro
This is the front of the building and the Plaza Santander

Here is a link from google maps that you can zoom in to see the area:

http://maps.google.com/maps?client=safari&oe=UTF-8&ie=UTF8&q=plaza+bolivar+bogota&fb=1&gl=us&hq=plaza+bolivar&hnear=Bogot%C3%A1,+Colombia&ll=4.597942,-74.073536&spn=0.011101,0.019226&z=16